Even if we’re not wearing any other makeup, a defined brow and some mascara can carry a look. Though we’ve traded straight across brows for an iteration with a bit of an arch, the bold brow phenomenon is still all the rage. If you’re experiencing a brow drama of Amber Rose and Kanye Twitter clap back proportions, but still harbor brow goals of being able to challenge Zayn Malik to a brow-off, we’ve got you covered. We tapped the best in the brow biz to offer counsel on all of the ways you’ve potentially effed up your brows.
Sometimes it feels like you have to be a member of the Psychic Friends Network when deciding which stray hairs should stay or go when plucking. It’s easy to go overboard. Sania Vucetaj of Sania’s Brow Bar says if you must tend to your brows yourself, you should only be using your tweezers in dull light. Yup, it’s all about soft lighting in the bathroom vanity. “The more lighting you have, the more chances you have to tweeze too much and get obsessive,” she says. So, in the sage words of the famous philosopher we both know and love, Pharrell, dim the lights down, baby.
You Waxed Off the Tail End of Your Brows
DIY job done wrong? Treat the area twice a day with a serum like Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Enhancing Serum Advanced to help nourish the skin around the brows and encourage a good environment for growth, says Anastasia Beverly Hills founder Anastasia Soare. She recommends using Anastasia Beverly Hills DIPBROW Pomade and Anastasia Beverly Hills Duo Brush #12 to paint the tail back on while it grows, layering hairlike strokes over top with a pencil to give the illusion of texture.
You Went Overboard With Brow Pencil
Who wants to wash their face and start from scratch if they apply too much brow pencil? Joan Smalls’s go-to makeup artist Porsche Cooper says to simply brush through your arches to distribute the excess product. Then, take Estée Lauder Perfecting Loose Powder in a shade that matches your skin tone and apply it on top of your brows using a powder puff, not a sponge. “This absorbs the extra color and softens and diffuses it a bit,” she notes.
You Just Have Sparse Brows
Regardless of shape, amplifying the brows you have will provide subtle definition, setting the tone for the rest of your makeup look. A powder kit like Clarins Pro Palette Eyebrow Kit features an array of shades and Cooper says to use up to three for the most natural results. Use the lighter color in the front of the brow, where the hair is more sparse. Then, draw a medium shade throughout the middle and the tail end. “That shade should be close to the actual hue of your brow,” she explains. For extra intensity, Porsche uses the darkest shade and goes through the entire length of the brow applying long, light strokes to impart density. If you’re looking for a more longterm fix, Micro Color Infusion is a semi-permanent solution to change the shape of your eyebrows or make them fuller. Technician Dominique Bossavy provides semi-permanent makeup that creates fullness that lasts up to two years.
You Have Super-Straight Across Brows
If your brows are naturally straight across and you’d like them not to be, Soare suggests a combo of her Brow Wiz mechanical pencil and Clear Brow Gel. “The pencils are terrific to fill in and create an arch anytime,” she says. Also, when faking an arch, a stencil makes the process infinitely easier. Place the stencil on, apply powder to the cutout, remove the stencil and tweeze, she says.
You Have Brows With An Exaggerated Arch
What if your issue is just the opposite? If Kendall Jenner's arches represent your platonic arch ideal, less is more when it comes to product. Cooper says to use a pencil in the same hue as your brows to fill in the section under the arch. We like Urban Decay Brow Beater. “Aim for the fullest part of the brow in the front to be level with the end of the brow,” she explains. “It should be a straight line, parallel to line you could draw from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye.”
Your Brows Are Way Far Apart
Soare notes that this is a common mistake that requires patience and a willingness to let hair grow back. She suggests following her Golden Ratio method to figure out where your brows should start and end. She says to use a brow pencil to mark the three points. “Brows should begin directly above the center of your nostrils, they should end where the corners of the nostrils align with the outer corners of the eyes,” she explains. “The highest point of the arch should align the tip of the nose with the center of the iris,” she says. Once you have this figured out, use a stencil and brow powder to fill in any over plucked areas. “Align the upper line of the stencil with the top of your brows and let your hair grow row by row until it’s the right shape again,” she advises. Brow expert Claudia Connelly points out that eyebrow hairs have different properties than the hair on the top of your head, so to stimulate the hair follicles you need to use products designed to do that. We like Talika Lipocils Serum.
You Cut Your Brows Too Short
In an effort to mimic professionals, we’ve all trimmed our eyebrows a bit too short. Soare says that over-trimming the tops of the brows leads to a short, thin appearance overall, even if they have the correct shape. To avoid this mistake, she says to use scissors with a straight edge and a super slim blade. “Brush hair up with a spooley, then lightly press on the hair before snipping just a millimeter off the tops at an angle,” she advises. “When you release the pressure, the tops of your brows will look perfectly straight.”
You Have an Unfortunate Tadpole Shape
Connelly says the solution for this is letting them grow and filling them in in the meantime with pencil or powder in the skinny spots until they grow back. “Then you need to go to a professional who can measure and shape them correctly,” Connelly says. “Brows frame your face, so there is a science as to how to shape them properly to do so.”
Original article link: Teen Vogue